not all who wander are lost

not all who wander are lost

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Getting barreled is perhaps one of the most quintessential moments of surfing. It is the moment when the top of the wave curls over you, forming an actual barrel of space in which if you get everything right (wave selection, timing, speed, placement on your board and on the wave) you can remain for a blissful moment. From what I hear and read, all goes quiet for a moment, sheltered as you are from the world and surrounded by beautiful turquoise water on all sides. Silent and fast, the speed of the wave, the speed of the board, hurtling through time and space. A happy ending is making it out before the wave crashes over you. Often you can see a gust of air shoot out the side as the wave crashes...the wave breathing its blessing~I can only imagine because I have yet to experience it myself. Not for the beginner surfer, this moment is reserved for those who have wave wisdom, something that I am working slow and steady for but not there yet.
Yesterday was a day for barrels. Too big for me so I stayed on the shore and took pictures and learned a lot from watching. I felt like I saw what Nica surf can do. It was a beautiful scene. I was full of awe and respect, for the ocean, for the surfers...
Here are a few pics...

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Chica Nica Brava

Nico Grom


1 comment:

Anonymous said...

mmm mm! loving these pictures and getting the blissed out vibe from you guys over here. hope it's true. Glad you stayed on the beach so we could get some pics. And happy to see one of you chica brava.

xo, Em