Leo and I went to see a local shaper the other day after a frustrating, knee-tweaking experience in big barrelin' surf a few days before. Him, not me. It was my first time in a shaping room, my first time hearing dream talk turn into board conception. Rocker this, concave that, length, width, little more here, little less there, fins, color, and finish...it's all down on the magic paper, it'll take a few weeks. Leo's energy was in-stereo surround-sound high-high happy fish in that shaping room. A functional surfboard is on the very short list of Leo's basics in life. He'd do without many things that the rest of the world would consider basic as long as he had a board.
From Mary Oliver's poem Wild Geese
"...you only have to let the soft animal of your body
love what it loves..."
And I would add another line and offer it as the world's best relational advice:
and honor whatever that is in another.