We have met up with the Watts brothers, Shawn and Jason. Staying in a house that's connected to a surf camp. We've met folks from Antigua & a bunch of Florida boys. We boated to a break yesterday, caught some fun waves. Leo caught a bunch. I sat on what is referred to as the "outside" or on the "shoulder" for a good while, stoking my confidence, watching how the waves were breaking, not quite ready to charge it with the boys. A sting ray jumped completely out of the water just near my board. That was cool. I could see its soft white underside, its mouth, its speckled back. Then a big old turtle popped its head up and gave me a smile. Ok....the next set, I thought. I paddled in a bit, closer to the line up but still close to the shoulder. The next set came rollin' in. You could see 1, 2, 3 wave ridges right after each other. My blood started pumpin' hard, I took a deep breath. The boys were positioning themselves. First wave, several of the shortboarders went for it. Second wave took care of the rest of 'em. Last wave, I was in the perfect spot on the left. Leo on the right. We paddled for it. It was one of the larger waves in my repertoire for sure. I caught it and rode it and it was FUUUUUUUN and fast. I got a few hoots from the boys. I only caught about 4 waves in 2 1/2 hours but they were good ones and I was completely proud of myself for bobbin' on my board at that break. The last wave I caught closed out early. I felt myself being raised up and over. I kicked my board out from under me and balled up, my body went down over the falls, plunged under the water. I felt rocks with my feet. The pressure from the wave released me and I kicked to the surface for a much appreciated breath. I could feel my toes were scraped up. I pulled my board to me by the leash, jumped on and paddled like crazy back out before the next set could roll in and catch me in the whitewater washing machine. I looked back at my foot and sure enough, I had a few good scrapes. Bloody toes. Not too bad though. Leo and I paddled back to the boat for some PB&J, juice, water, and split a beer. Ahhhhh.
Last night was a clear Milky Way night early on. Lots of stars. A cool breeze. Hammocks on the roof. Then the moon rose, bright enough to cast shadows. We walked to dinner and back, lovin' the moonlight....reflective. Celebrated Jason's bday with some Flor de Cana yum yum rum.
I went into the bedroom to get something and I spotted a scorpion on the wall over the bed. Nice. Took some pictures. I'll post those at some point soon. I haven't uploaded them yet.
Ready for whatever the day brings. Off to forge for some food.
Thinking of Erik heading to Africa....Travelers' Psalm brother.....Love you.
Peace and big love to the rest of you too.