First order of business is to say that Leo’s collarbone is healing. He’s doing a little better everyday, though it’s still painful when he lays down and gets up or moves wrong. He’s in good spirits and taking it all in stride.
Second order of business is to tell you about my morning yesterday!!
I paddled out to the beach break. I had just gotten out there and sat up on my board when Sally paddled over to say hi. Sally is super cool, from the UK, probably climbed trees and had skinned up knees when she was little. My kind of sister. Nothing foo-foo about her.
“Caught many yet this morning?” I asked.
“Nah….it’s closin’ out again,” she said.
“Yeah, it’s been like this for awhile now….I’m crazy to go to the main point but I’m still too nervous….”
A sly smile spread across Sally’s face as she started paddling towards the main point and its big waves. “Let’s go then!” she called over her shoulder.
“Shit” I mumbled under my breath as I scrambled to catch up. I kept my eyes on the horizon the entire time making sure we wouldn’t get clobbered by a set of big ones on the way over. A freight train carrying adrenaline thundered through my veins.
We got over there as Gavin, a friend and seasoned surfer was paddling back out after a nice ride. I could see his smile from far away. “Hiya!......Glad to see yas out here!” ‘Bout bloody time, isnt it?!”
My heart slowed down a bit as we sat on our boards together watcing the horizon. I felt like I had a big brother and a sister in the water, watchin’ out. A few other friends paddled out as well. A mellow happy vibe.
I caught 4 or 5 waves but the first one, because it was the first one, was by far the sweetest. It was coming towards us, we all saw it. Gav and I exchanged glances and I decided to go for it. I laid down on my belly and started digging deep and fast to get my speed up. I looked over my right shoulder and saw the wave and at the same time I dropped down the face. I get lightheaded just remembering...it was big. Speeding down the face of the wave to the left. YAHOOOOOOOOOOO! I came over the edge of it, pulled myself back on my belly and paddled back out to the group. My entire body was shaking with adrenaline and I had the biggest flippin’ smile on my face. I was greeted with hoots and hollers and smiles by Gav, Sally, and Luke. My first wave on the main point. So so so so cool. AND, Leo and Dimuthu were watching from Why Not, hence the pictures. Although it's not the "first wave", I'm syked he caught a picture of my morning session. Thanks Leo!!
Blissin’ big time…
I went back out in the afternoon and tweaked some muscles in my side so....I'm not out there today. No yoga either. Oh well...Still riding those waves from yesterday in my mind and that'll take me into tomorrow, no problem.
Happy birthday to Jessica from Erik, Leo, Ludo and meeeeee~