We are back home, it's Sunday night. 1st Sunday of Advent. I haven't quite caught up with that fact but perhaps before bed I'll take a little time to breathe in the season for myself~
It was a pleasure to have Darrell and Lisa visit for a few days. We shared many good stories and had a nice beach time as well. Darrell and Papa Blandford have many similarities in mannerism....uncanny! I asked Lisa who some of her favorite poets are....first one she said was Mary Oliver :) After our breakfast on Thursday morning we headed for the beach in Big Daddy's van. Thursday and Friday we hung out at the beach. Got a beach walk and some snorkeling in, and lots of sitting on the beach looking at the waves and exchanging stories. Friday evening, we headed back to Colombo. Went out for a nice dinner at the Gallery Cafe and the next morning, around 5am, Big Daddy took Darrell and Lisa to the airport. Leo and I wasted no time and got on the early morning train back to Hikkaduwa.
Saturday, Leo took me out to the main break. Boards under our arms we headed up the beach, past Funky de Bar, past Ranjiths, put our leashes on and...waded into the water. Bellies on the boards and began paddling to the right of the break. My heart was pounding. It was my first time out where the big waves are. It was a really small day but it was still big and intimidating and exhilarating for me. I stayed on the outside and watched plenty of boys catch plenty of waves...I went for 2 but only half-heartedly. Didn't catch anything. Didn't really WANT to catch anything to be honest. It was enough just to be out there. Leo was awesome. He explained things to me, gave me some tips about where and where NOT to sit. Finally, my back starting to feel pretty toasted, I went in (which is trickier than it sounds but it turned out fine).
I finished Audacity of Hope and took a nap after my exciting morning. Had a few good conversations with friends. Watched Leo surf at sunset with Christmas music on my iPod and a cold beer in my hand. Life is good. We played some pool last night but we conked out pretty early.
This morning we headed out to surf after an early coffee at Shirley's coffee shop. Leo to the main break which was lookin' BIG to me so I headed down the beach to the beach break. I spent most of the time laying on my board. Smiled at a sea-turtle. Watched sets roll through. I caught 4 real waves in 3 hours. The last one was nice. I rode it in. By that time it was almost 1pm. I cracked open a cold coke (glass bottle) and watched Leo for another hour or so on the main point. Dude's got style. When he came in, we had rice and curry with Himali and watched some beautiful sets roll in to an amazing thunderstorm. Asanka, Nalinda, Kapila, Vipula, Leo, and I. Nice...
Back to Colombo by van and now getting ready for the work week~
English Premier League Football is on TV. I think Leo might have fallen asleep on the couch. It's pretty quiet out there.
Off to unpack my beach bag and light a candle before bed.
Good night friends~