I've always been an active person, and I've had fun with several sports over the years but I've never really HAD a sport. I feel like I've found my sport.
Remember what it felt like as a little kid to put your entire body and soul into something and not want to do anything else? Remember PLAYING with all of your being and not wanting to come inside? Being utterly happy and tired and a MESS when you did come in? THAT IS WHAT IT'S LIKE!! I have pains and tweaks and bruises, my body is getting stronger by the day, my skills are building on each other with every wave I catch or miss, and it all serves as an elixir. I finally get it.....Leo's intense love of the waves. It's the most difficult sport I've ever attempted because there are so many things to learn and remember and practice in an ever-changing medium.
There are quite a few other women in the line up the past few weeks which has been really cool. I feel pretty comfortable out there with the boys but there is an instant comraderie, even if it's just a smile or thumbs up, when another sister paddles out.
My favorite thing is to be in the waves with Leo and our friends from Why Not, Asanka, Nalinda, and even Dimuthu once in awhile. Egging each other on, sharing waves, splashing dunking laughing teasing and hoopin and hollerin' during a nice ride of a brother (or sister!)